Shop notes magazine issue 41 pdf download

Before you pick up. Simple Hinges. The three parts Speaking of the blade, I chose 3 4 5 of each sawhorse are linked by one designed to leave a smooth steel pins in shallow recesses. It cut edge. Then ease the edges! NOTE: router and a straight bit. The with a slight roundover. DRAWN 10! With this fit the recesses you routed earlier arrangement, the stress on the Figure 2.

The pins are covered 1! This is shelf. Go easy removing 15! Cutting out the material and test the fit often. I did drill little space when stored. But a few holes, though. WASTE starting point for the saw blade. Sliding tables are usually found on large, indus- The sliding table has the capacity to crosscut a trial table saws used for panel-cutting.

The fence automatically a good reason for that. A sliding table guarantees registers square to the blade when installed and can precision cuts, particularly on wide panels. This fence also features a side With the sliding table shown here, you can support to help when crosscutting long stock. For upgrade your ordinary table saw to make square a dedicated outrigger support, turn to page You may have to shorten or move and capacity of your table saw, this sliding table is the fence rails, but this modification is worth it.

To use the sliding table as a stationary wing for basic cuts, lock it in place with a knob located underneath. On my saw, on the saw cabinet, as shown in for your table saw, there are a I cut the rail flush with the edge the photo at left.

The slid- of the main table. This provides Before mounting the plate, ing table was designed to replace clearance for the table to slide. You may be able to drill new support the sliding table. Two holes Notched Mounting Plate. It starts To locate the brackets on the the mounting plate. There are ily attached the plate to the saw a couple of things to note when with double-sided tape.

After making the mounting plate. I had to form a notch in the screws from the back side. The plat- form on which the sliding table rides rests on a pair of cleats. Figure 1 shows that the cleats are Start by gluing up two layers aluminum angle.

This allows the pretty simple to make. Cut them of plywood. After you cut the table to slide smoothly. There are a sized holes. These holes allow work at the table saw.

The first few holes to drill in the platform. The miter tracks sit proud front edge of the saw. Snug sliding table can glide easily. These tighten them just yet. Now ing table from tipping during used to level the platform after the that the mounting plate and use. These guides run in grooves table is installed. After cutting locks the table in position.

The platform is complete except there are shallow rabbets cut holes for the screws. Place the for fastening it to the cleats. This provides a recessed surface the platform. The aluminum run- Sliding Table. Like the plat- to mount the aluminum angle ners should slide into the slots in form, the sliding table is made runners flush with the edges of the platform. After making sure from two layers of plywood cut the sliding table. Plastic The next thing to do on the and table are flush, mark the laminate on the top adds dura- table is install a threaded insert.

The illus- to slide smoothly over it when a studded knob Figure 3a. I used spray Angle Runners. Making the how I did this. Mark and then trimmed it with a router couple of steps. One of the legs of flexible. To keep them straight the location of the and flush-trim bit. Connect do at the table saw. You can see in of the platform. After cutting the left shows the process I used. The box straightedge while top of the table at one end.

This is blade in your table saw for the on the opposite page steps you installing the bars used to index the fence square to ripping operation. Just make sure through the process of position- with screws. And to wear safety goggles and take it ing the table and platform, lev- slow and steady through the cut. Miter Bars. The last piece to add is the fence. Simple Construction.

The mounting block and fence base 5 a. I also drilled oversized holes in the Assembly. Locate and The stop block is sized to provide T-Track Fence. Figures 4 and drill holes in the T-track groove dust relief under it. The fence 5 show the specifics on building and then fasten the fence to the support is simply fastened with the fence. Finally, use a screws to the bottom of the fence. Before fastening the cleats to the cleats until after the table is the sliding table flush with the saw table the platform, use a framing square to create level and parallel.

Supporting the end of a long the inside of the as you can see in the board when crosscutting or rip- legs. This allows you drawings below. I used ping makes for a safer, more to adjust the height of the rail a waxed spacer during glueup to accurate cut. The outrigger you to match your table saw. A pin form the mortise.

Then once the see above can be placed to the at each end of the rail allows it glue dries, cut the shape at the side of your saw to lend a hand to pivot slightly to account for band saw and sand it smooth. Or place it at uneven floors. Slotted Legs. The legs are the back of your saw to support a Built-Up Feet. FOOT A 2! Step over to the bottom of the notch in the posts END band saw to cut the notch in the when the roll pins are in place.

Now horizontal rail. Assemble the posts to the legs For crosscutting, place it to the edge to hold the pair of stretch- with the simple hardware shown side of the saw so that the end of ers, as you can see in Figure 1b.

When ripping, the the outrigger is adjustable. The final piece — the rail. It starts with cutting the make the rail besides cut it to feed end.

For for the sliding post. I also routed the roll pins. These pins can be cutting sheet goods, you may a slot to accommodate the hard- found at the hardware store. I want to build a second one to ware that is used for adjustment, located the holes so there would provide maximum support.

At the drill press, I. As I searched for a board in my lum- ber rack a while ago, I happened to notice how much empty space there was between the stacks. I decided that space could be put to much bet- ter use, so I came up with this multi- functional lumber storage center.

As you can see from the photo, this lumber center not only pro- vides plenty of storage for boards of various lengths and widths, but it also keeps cutoffs and shorter stock well organized. There are deep, removable drawers for tools and supplies, as well.

Another nice feature is the addi- tion of a worksurface with a built- in miter saw. I used to have to tote unwieldy boards across the shop to rough cut them but now I can make those cuts on the spot. The rack is made of dimensional lumber and plywood available at any home center. The supports will safely hold a good-sized supply of lumber.

Parts wanted them positioned Figure 1b. Now attach the arms with a. A of a series of posts or stanchions. Each to attach the skins to the shelves. You may 3! I built mine so the top 20! Then I cut assembly into place. After clamp- 17! ARE 1! Storage 8 x 1! Setting the partially completed unit in place is definitely a two person job. I used 3" construction lag H screws s because they have extra large heads and are less likely to pull through the wood refer to Sources on page You may also lumber center to have to place shims behind the the wall studs.

You should use a shim anywhere there is a gap behind a screw. Drive screws through all the top across the arms and drive the drive them straight in Figure 6. I had to drive some of the drill attachment options that will Fasten the Top Skins.

Fin- fasteners at an angle because make it easier to drive fasteners ish up by installing all the top there was not enough room for in tight places in the Great Gear shelf skins. You can lay each one my driver, a bit, and a fastener to article found on page Once I deter- Making the drawers is pretty toms to ensure they were square mined this measurement, I con- b. This helps to keep the in Figure 8. I ripped down two-!

The ing it all together with glue and there are no runners to fuss with. Most can set the platform in place and backs, and sides from solid miter saws will require you to position your saw as shown in stock. Then cut the rabbets on build a platform to raise it to the the lower right photo.

Then drill the fronts and backs as shown in level of the shelf surface. This the holes for the mounting bolts. Figure 7a. Next, cut the grooves also provides a place to bolt the Now you can start filling your for the drawer bottoms.

A notch saw down, yet still retain some center with boards, cutoffs, and is cut in each drawer front for portability when required. I took extra care sure from the saw table to the increased convenience. Hardware adds the final touch to other hand, draws your attention me of old, industrial hardware a project. The proper selection of to the project in a bad way.

But fits right in. Shiny zinc-plated pick up basic utility hardware, elbow grease or chemistry. But and call it good. The photo above shows the first with a few steps, it can take on This kind of hardware is inex- method. A wire wheel mounted a whole new appearance in pensive and has a shiny, zinc in a drill press abrades the coat- just a short time. Finer, The good news is you can softer bristles on the wheel leave upgrade the look of basic hard- a dull, nearly scratch-free surface.

Here are three looks to paper or steel wool takes care of consider for your next project. Basic Bare Steel. The first look The other option to remove the is also the easiest to create — zinc coating is to use an acid solu- plain, unplated steel. It reminds tion to dissolve it, as shown in the. Diluted muriatic acid will remove the zinc plating from a hinge in just a few minutes. The result is a dull, bare steel surface with an old-time look.

To prevent rust and lock in stores and home centers. Milder the look, I like to spray on a cou- citric acid is available, as well.

It ple coats of satin lacquer. The uncoated over the final appearance. After applying a coat of oil- follow the instructions on the ish on your hardware. And here based finish, use a torch again to burn it. Buff out the package and wear gloves and you can have a little fun. Keep an eye on The first step is shown in the the hardware and remove it when upper right photo.

Take it easy If either of these two options In order to remove the acid, I here. Take a look and dry if off. A quick buffing color of the steel. I brush on a coat of oil-based fin- hardware. With these techniques, To Protect or Not. You could ish, as shown in the right photo. You can ware, too. Getting a good end result sult involves a few key steps. I like to degrease and clean the hardware with lacquer thin- ner. Then spray on a coat at of primer. To avoid an overdone, ne, dipped appearance, app apply thin, even coats.

Shop Short a. And there are a couple of a quarter-turn and adjust the rip tricks involved with drilling the fence to cut the second bevel. A router bit and mounting holes. I used A Drill Press Cradle. To drill Rip the Bevels. A stop block clamped to router bits, I made the fixture You can see how to cut the bev- the fence guarantees the racks are you see in the left drawings.

Deep Holes The article on page 42 shows how to drill an accurate hole through the center of a long piece of wood. Then chuck the end of a length of straight metal rod in the drill press, and mark the location of the other end of the rod on a sacrificial board clamped to the table, as shown in Figure 1.

Punch one end of the workpiece and place it on the brad. Use a hand- screw to hold it steady while you drill Figure 2. You need to file and sand the b. I my attention. One of the few chal- with a hand-held router. A to the parts guides the router The secret behind the small good approach is to use a circular for accurate cuts. The Side View footprint is that the router table is saw to cut more manageable but drawing in the left margin has like a workshop Murphy bed — still oversize blanks from a sheet all the details.

Take note that it folds out when you need it and of plywood. I used a chisel to square Still not convinced? Plywood blank. Over at the table saw, you up the end after routing. As you put on the well at the table saw.

The key is using the router table. The cut on each end that slips into the the bottom Figure 1. Inside tom, and divider. Figure 1a shows in Figure 1c. The cleat is glued to the cabinet, three adjustable ply- that the divider is made up of the lower edge of the top.

This cre- Assembly. You only need to the upper portion. Wide hard- ates a rigid mounting surface for cut the back panels to size before wood edging provides extra stiff- the router table. Add the holds two storage towers. The The bottom has a groove cut bottom, divider, and top assem- space between them is for the in it, as well. This creates two pockets to router when the table is stored.

The reason is that I added a hard- slip the backs into place. The towers are made from ply- wood cleat at the top to secure Cap it off with the other wood and joined with dadoes the cabinet to the wall. The tabletop A pair of T-tracks recessed in the has dealt with the storage com- is attached to the thick divider top allow you to attach the fence or ponent of this project.

From here with a continuous hinge at the other accessories. What You Get: 9 printable digital pages of step-by-step instructions! Pd the limited capacity of many vacuums means you need to empty them frequently!

It works really well. For the Shop Any ideas! A good system of managing the cord and hose is another feature I look for. Anonymous March 23, pm. Baltic Birch Plywood. On the back, the inside face of the workpiece is face down. Figure 3b helps you set the miter gauge and blade angle. For these cuts, a pair of flathead machine screws act as stops to flush out the drawer with the front of the case.

I tacked the top in place with a couple of small brads until it was clamped to keep all the pieces aligned properly. The Airshield Pro powered faceshield from Trend provides a healthy solution for keeping you from breathing harmful dust while protecting your face and neck from flying debris. Here, you can use a bearingguided rabbeting bit to do the job.

Keep your pocket hole jig and all its accessories in one compact, portable workstation. Maximize the performance of your router table with this must-have, precision upgrade. This full-featured lift provides all the benefits of a commercial version, without the cost. It works with almost any mid-sized router and its straightforward design makes it simple to build. Basic materials and off-the-shelf hardware are all you need to upgrade your router table in just one weekend.

Your efficiency will soon be recognized and you will be in line for advancement. They splayoutfromsidetoside,and theytiltforwardfromeachend ofthesawhorse. Theonlyproblemisthis requirescuttingcompoundangles whichcanbetimeconsumingto setup. Soinstead,Iuseawood wedgetoangleeachleginboth …. Upload a Thing! Customize a Thing. Shop Tes. Download All Files. Select a Collection.

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